Michael Pollan, Food Policy and Hegemony

by: Paul Rosenberg

Sat Nov 29, 2008 at 13:30


On Bill Moyers Journal last night, the conversation with food expert Michael Pollan (The Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History Of Four Meals, In Defense Of Food: An Eater's Manifesto) was extremely revealing, not only about the subject of food and its complex relationship with issues from global warming to childhood obesity, but also with the larger patterns of how power works and how new thinking is kept marginalized-even in an atmosphere of "change."  Indeed, in its own way, this program threw more light on the recent debates over policy and personnel in the Obama Administration than almost anything I can think of ostensibly written on the subject.

Take this, for example, not even from the dialogue, but just from the introduction:

BILL MOYERS: For a brief moment during the campaign, reformers thought Barack Obama might include agriculture in the "agenda of change" he would take to Washington. He told TIME magazine that the way we produce our food "is partly contributing to type 2 diabetes, stroke and heart disease, obesity, all the things that are driving our huge explosion in health care costs." The farm lobby roared in protest. Obama buckled, took it back, and said he was "simply paraphrasing an article he read."

Ah, yes - but what an article! Here it is: nine pages in the NEW YORK TIMES MAGAZINE on October 12. An open letter to the future "Farmer in Chief" - from one of the country's leading experts on food - Michael Pollan. Significant progress on health care, energy independence, and climate change, Pollan told the candidates, depends on something you haven't talked about at all - food.

That article triggered such a response that an online movement has sprung up calling on President-elect Obama to name Michael Pollan Secretary of Agriculture.

Fat chance of that!  Pollan's a smart guy. He knows that the Department of Agriculture is agribusiness home turf.  He wouldn't stand a chance there-and he said so, directly to Moyers. It's an example of hegemony, pure and simple, and though Pollan never used the word, it's obvious that he understands it well.

Paul Rosenberg :: Michael Pollan, Food Policy and Hegemony
First, let's start by looking back at the campaign incident Moyers referred to:

For a brief moment during the campaign, reformers thought Barack Obama might include agriculture in the "agenda of change" he would take to Washington. He told TIME magazine that the way we produce our food "is partly contributing to type 2 diabetes, stroke and heart disease, obesity, all the things that are driving our huge explosion in health care costs." The farm lobby roared in protest. Obama buckled, took it back, and said he was "simply paraphrasing an article he read."

This was, I think, a prototypical moment in the Obama campaign.  Obama's a smart and curious guy-the exact opposite of George Bush.  And so he reads this fascinating article and he's naturally inclined to want to talk about it.  It's stimulating.  But, then comes the pushback from the entrenched powers, and Obama is not about to ruffle anyone's feathers.  It's all about common ground with him.

Of course, I understand the reasoning here.  I understand the logic of the campaign-don't pick any fights you don't have to in order to win the election.  But I also understand that Obama is living in a fantasy world.  Power concedes nothing without a demand.  And closing ones eyes to enormous problems and the special interests who help create them is no way to bring about fundamental change.  So what Obama was up against in this moment was the basic contradiction between the brilliance of his campaign strategy, and it's total inadequacy for addressing a whole range of fundamental problems.

Pollan realizes this, of course.  He's thought a lot about the power relations involved, and he knows that the powerful entrenched interests cannot simply be wished away or ignored:

BILL MOYERS: What you won't find in his writings is a Shermanesque-like statement saying that if nominated he will not serve. But let's watch my guest Michael Pollan turn pale as I ask him suppose Obama did yield to legions of admirers and name you Secretary of Agriculture instead of yet one more advocate of industrial farming? Where would you start?

MICHAEL POLLAN: I'm ready for the Shermanesque statement.

BILL MOYERS: Make it. We'll make some news on this.

MICHAEL POLLAN: It's not from me. It's - this is - I would be so bad at this job.

BILL MOYERS: Why?

MICHAEL POLLAN: I have an understanding of my strengths and limitations. Well, you have to understand that that department of the government, the $90 billion a year behemoth is captive of agri-business. It is owned by agri-business. They're in the room making policy there. When you have a food safety recall over meat, sitting there with the Secretary of Agriculture and her chief of staff or his chief of staff is the head of the National Cattlemen's Beef Association.

It's all worked out together. So, I don't know I mean, I think that the department, in a way, is part of the problem. And they're also very dependent on the legislation that the House and Senate Agricultural Committees cobble together. And so I think you'd get swallowed up there very easily. I think that and I don't want this job either. What Obama needs to do, if he indeed wants to make change in this area and that isn't clear yet that he does at least in his first term I think we need a food policy czar in the White House because the challenge is not just what we do with agriculture, it's connecting the dots between agriculture and public health, between agriculture and energy and climate change, agriculture and education.

So you need someone who can take a kind of more you know, global view of the problem and realize that it's an interdisciplinary problem, if you will. And if you do hope to make progress in all these other areas, you have to make sure that if the Surgeon General is, you know, going on about the epidemic of type 2 diabetes, you don't want to be signing farm bills that subsidize high fructose corn syrup at the same time. So you have to kind of align

Now that's the kind of guy you want in the room when you're trying to create real change.  He understands the entrenched forces, he understands the need to do an end run, if any progress is to be made, he understands that the problem is interdisciplinary, he understands, in short, that it's all about strategy, and there's a need to take existing forces and reconfigure them for a unified purpose.

This is the same exact situation with the ongoing economic debates, by the way.  It's not that the folks Obama is appointing aren't sincere in the moment or won't willingly carry out his policies.  It's that they simply don't see the interconnections that a progressive critic sees.  They don't see how responding to the crisis of the moment is intricately interconnected to a dozen different other concerns that need to be coordinated with one another.  That's the kind of mentality that Pollan represents with respect to food policy, and how it connects with a myriad other concerns, and the same can be said about the entire policy array, not least, economics.

Pollan goes on to note, and then explicate, a variety of different significant points--from the health effects of food:

All these chronic diseases which is now what kills us basically pretty reliably in America are adding more than $250 billion a year to healthcare costs. They are the reason that this generation just being born now is expected to have a shorter lifespan than their parents, that one in three Americans born in the year 2000, according to the Centers for Disease Control, will have type 2 diabetes, which is a really serious sentence. It takes several years off your life. It gives you an 80 percent chance of heart disease. It means you are going to be spending $14,000 a year in added health costs.

to the energy/environmental costs:  

when you look at the food economy's use of fossil fuel, which is about 19 percent, you've got a lot of diesel transportation. But it's more than personal transportation, absolutely. And, you know, we don't see that when we look at our food system.

to the national security implications:

National security, well, there's a there's a tremendous danger when you centralize your food supply....

Well, having a highly centralized food system such as we have where one hamburger plant might be grinding 40 or 50 million burgers in a week, where one pre-bagged salad plant is washing 26 million servings of salad in a week, that's very efficient, but it's also very brittle or very precarious. Because if a microbe is introduced into that one plant, by a terrorist or by accidental contamination, millions of people will get sick. You don't want to put all your eggs in one basket when it comes to your food safety. You want to decentralize.

This is what real transformation is about: the relationships between things totally change, the ways the interconnect and interact--or don't--totally change to reflect a new understanding of the world, to solve old problems and create new possibilities.

That is change we can believe in.  And the mere fact that Obama was fascinated, and wanted to talk about what Michael Pollan had written, that is a hopeful sign, a promise of a possible beginning, that we have to fight to preserve and expand upon.  Otherwise, the special interests will either scream in public, clear their throats in private, or both, and the subject will be closed.

Pollan also stresses that are things people can do to make change in their own lives, both at the personal level, and in bottom-up community-building ways.  Community organizer that Obama once was, one suggestion Pollan made seems particularly intriguing--and remarkably powerful, a way that the First Family could set an example that could inspire a mass movement:

MICHAEL POLLAN: Well, look, the president's bully pulpit is a very important thing. And, you know, I think the first family could set an example with who they appoint White House chef. Is it someone who's really associated with this, you know, local food movement? Who would not only cook wonderful, healthy food for them, but who, at state dinners, would kind of shine a light some of the best farmers in this country and elevate the prestige of farming. I also think that we need, in addition to a White House Chef; we need a White House Farmer.

BILL MOYERS: Are you suggesting that the president should rip up the South Lawn?

MICHAEL POLLAN: Not all of it. Not all of it.

BILL MOYERS: All right, say five acres.

MICHAEL POLLAN: Five acres. They've got 17 acres to play with. I don't know exactly how much. But I'm saying five acres. Put in a garden, organic garden. Hire a good farmer to grow food there. I think that that would send a powerful message. You know, this has happened before. Eleanor Roosevelt put a victory garden in, in the White House in 1942.

BILL MOYERS: ...during second world war

MICHAEL POLLAN: It was over the objections of the Department of Agriculture, who thought it was going to hurt the food industry if people started growing food at home. You know, God forbid.

BILL MOYERS: Some things never change

MICHAEL POLLAN: Yeah, I know. So they were on the wrong side of that issue, too. But she persisted. And she said, "This is really important for the war effort. I want to encourage people to grow food." And she put in this garden. And by the end of the war, there were 20 million victory gardens in America.

People were ripping up their lawns, planting vegetables, raising chickens, and by the end of the war, they were producing 40 percent of the fresh produce in America was being produced in home gardens. So it's not trivial, it could make a tremendous contribution, especially in hard times.

Let me repeat that again: "People were ripping up their lawns, planting vegetables, raising chickens, and by the end of the war, they were producing 40 percent of the fresh produce in America."

There is tremendous potential in mobilizing the American people for a common purpose, and this is a shinning example of how that can be done.  The ideas are out there.  Not just Pollan's ideas on food.  In virtually every field you can imagine, there are people thining about how things connect together now, and how they could be reconnected in much better, much more empowering ways.

The issue is not "pragmatic" vs. "ideological".   It's tunnel vision vs. visionary. And there's nothing pragmatic about a lack of vision.

"Where there is no vision, the people perish."
    --Proverbs 29:18

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Kudos! (0.00 / 0)
You cite my favorite book of last year.

But you're cherry-picking his comments.

Read the books.  It's absolutely a fascinating exploration of food production.

And talk about blowing Whole Foods folks right out of the water!

I annoy friends regularly today by revealing Rose the Chicken and the truth of Whole Foods.

:)

Really, read the real book.  

And he's a fabulous writer.  A bonus.


Obama's promises (0.00 / 0)
I don't know if I'm bored or scared.  What I'm hearing from the streets is that no one is really talking about housing. Infrastructure means housing.  Not really.  Will he back off everything?  I sent my resume in - one of one million.  It was not for real but I just sent it.  Agriculture, housing, health care, education,  - I'm scared and or I'm bored that I can't do anything.  I feel helpless since the election.  Talk me down.

Housing Isn't Sexy, I'm Afraid (0.00 / 0)
But it's unavoidable.  At least that's my hope.  There's been a Herculean effort to ignore the root problem of the foreclosure crisis, and so long as this persists, don't expect any sort of cogent focus on housing.  But at some point, this has got to shift.  And the discussion then has got to be much bigger than just, "How do we fix this mess?" but also, "What do we want to do about housing for decades into the future?"

"You know what they say -- those of us who fail history... doomed to repeat it in summer school." -- Buffy The Vampire Slayer, Season 6, Episode 3

[ Parent ]
housing (4.00 / 1)
You can build the roads, libraries, schools, etc. but if no one can live there, what's the use?  So I just want him to think whollistically about community also.  But I work with the bottom rung of the populations that can't own and maybe shouldn't own but have a right to housing.  Some need deep long lasting subsidies with wrap around services; some will never work and will be on SSI if they can get on it.  I have a lot of stories to tell, but noone is asking.We are trying to use what little monies we get to help this part of the population as well as those that have jobs and can afford some homeownership deals.  Anyway, I'm sort of off your original topic of the day; but that's the way my brain is working today.  

[ Parent ]
Infrastructure (0.00 / 0)
If you have skills at major building skills, you're in like Flynt.

Building bridges, etc., is a particular skill set.  

If you have the typical skill set of Americans today, which is not much, you're outta luck.

Those jobs won't go to you.

Unless you get a job working for the construction company on their answering service or billing department.


jobs (0.00 / 0)
I'm not in construction--in housing policy as the Director of affordable housing for Los Angeles County.  Just talking about whether they are actually talking to mayors, county folk here on the west coast...they mentioned the Mayor of Miami as possible Sec. of HUD.  I haven't heard anyone from the west coast being called in but then I'm certainly not in the loop.  I'm still hopeful but just saying.  The affordable housing issues are not rocket science.  Infrastructure has got to mean more capital for building but also rental subsidies and service funds or the communities they fix up won't have any people.  Anyway, I'm off subject here.  

[ Parent ]
Off Subject, But Not (4.00 / 1)
When you start to talk about the systemic aspects--that it's not just infrastructure, but community-building--then what you're doing is a pretty good parallel to what Pollan is up to.

When you go further down this road, and it's about affordable housing located close to jobs so that people don't have to commute 3-4 hours a day, and then have time and energy to actually work a few minutes, maybe half an hour in a community garden every day, then the interconnections get richer and richer still.

"You know what they say -- those of us who fail history... doomed to repeat it in summer school." -- Buffy The Vampire Slayer, Season 6, Episode 3


[ Parent ]
I can't wait to watch Pollan on Moyers (4.00 / 2)
I taped it but haven't watched it yet.  His NYT piece was great, and I should check out his book.

I think your concluding statement is largely correct:

The issue is not "pragmatic" vs. "ideological". It's tunnel vision vs. visionary. And there's nothing pragmatic about a lack of vision.

What I'd add to this (and may be implicit in it) is that the vision, strategy and their execution must have a systemic, wholistic perspective and scope, as the Pollan excerpts and your own comments suggest.

That's part of what I liked about Pollan's NYT piece.  He clearly "got" this, and had enough subject-matter expertise to describe the "systemic" problems and potential multi-pronged systemic approaches to solving them.

I continue to believe that Obama has the potential (and the inclination) to be a systemic thinker, albeit with a tendency toward caution and avoidance of conflict he considers unproductive.  It seems pretty clear that these latter tendencies are not highly valued by some on the left (including here).  I remain more willing to accept them as largely productive and smart.

I believe we need a president who is a visionary and systemic thinker and who is also very pragmatic about the very difficult task of executing this kind of change in a political/bureaucratic system that is deeply entrenched in its systemic dysfunction.  The current "crisis" is a great opportunity, but it is also poses great risks on many interrelated fronts.

So far, I'm inclined to trust Obama's balancing of systemic vision/strategy and cautious pragmatism.  I (and he), of course, could be wrong.

But I think I'm in general agreement with Paul and Pollan regarding the systemic level at which solutions must be designed and executed.

In fact, I was thinking the other day that a new web site called something like "Systemic Solutions" would be a useful contribution in today's environment.  One of its chief goals would be to build on the views of folks like Pollan and other systemic thinkers to craft synergistic policies, strategies and tactics developed from an increasingly systemic and integrated perspective.

Personally, I have a hard time with the word "ideology."  Maybe I just don't understand what it means.  What I relate to is "core values (e.g., dignitarianism) + passion/vision + systemic thinking/strategies + smart, insightful, pragmatic and effective tactics."  Relative to this, I see ideology as too blunt, inflexible and even blinding to rely on as one's primary perceptual and strategic tool.  But, as I said, maybe I just don't understand its real meaning.



READ THE BOOK! (0.00 / 0)
This book was, by far, THE best book of last year.

I read every paragraphy with the same attention I give to good chocolate or good sex.

I can't STAND reading the derivative articles on his work.

If you can't be bothered to read the dang book, then don't comment.

This book was exquisite.

It deserves more respect than off-handed comments.


Yep. (4.00 / 1)
That is change we can believe in.  And the mere fact that Obama was fascinated, and wanted to talk about what Michael Pollan had written, that is a hopeful sign, a promise of a possible beginning, that we have to fight to preserve and expand upon.  Otherwise, the special interests will either scream in public, clear their throats in private, or both, and the subject will be closed.

Connect the dots. That's our real job, always has been. Since I'm now done for the moment with writing checks to campaigns, phone-banking and walking my precinct -- successfully, I'm happy to say -- it's time to return to telling people what we have in mind, and why.

Although we have little present hope of dislodging agribusiness' grip on policy councils in Washington, the likes of Archer Daniels Midland and Monsanto do nevertheless face purely technical challenges resulting largely from their own set-fire-to-the-future mentality. Sooner or later, that mentality, which has given rise to epidemics of type-2 diabetes, e-coli infections, obesity and atherosclerosis -- not to mention the insidious economic side-effects of GM hybridization and the patenting of high-yield crop seeds -- will produce a visible threat convergence very like the one now painfully evident in the collapse of the financial sector.

When that convergence arrives, we'll be in much better shape if people are already well aware of what's at issue, and what we outside the industry would recommend in response to the emerging crisis.


In Defense of Food (4.00 / 1)
I was deeply impressed last year when his book "In Defense of Food" was actually on the top 10 bestsellers shelf at Barnes and Noble for quite a few weeks. That book, quite simply, has everything that a person needs to know to eat healthy, even in our modern environment of conflicting messages and marketing that leads us to our national obesity problem.

But during that same period, the number one bestseller was the "The Secret", a book that tells us we can be healthy just by wishing for it really hard.

That's our deepest problem right there, IMHO.


The REAL Secret: (0.00 / 0)
God gave you a brain. Use it!

"You know what they say -- those of us who fail history... doomed to repeat it in summer school." -- Buffy The Vampire Slayer, Season 6, Episode 3

[ Parent ]
Great post (0.00 / 0)
Really brilliant, necessary stuff. Thank you.

"And life is grand And I will say this at the risk of falling from favor With those of you Who have appointed yourselves To expect us To say something darker." -- Camper Van Beethoven

Corn Syrup (4.00 / 1)
Anyone caught the pro-corn syrup pushback ads on television lately?  They take the tack of "just what exactly is so bad with corn syrup, anyway?"  Hilarious and Orwellian scary at the same time.  I wonder who their target audience is?  People seems to either not give a shit, or generally avoid it.  Not many folks on the fence.

Remember "Got Milk?" (0.00 / 0)
That ad campaign was started as pushback to criticism of bovine growth hormone, and it worked. How much do you hear about bovine growth hormone these days? Yet they're still using it.

Montani semper liberi

[ Parent ]
Ideological Appointments (4.00 / 1)
This makes a very good case for making more ideological appointments.  Obama has to pick his big battles.  But by appointing people who get this kind of stuff, the whole federal government works like a fractal to take on these interests in smaller steps while Obama handles the stuff he choses to focus on.

I loved the chef and farm idea, as well.


In a great and stimulating diary, this was the only part I diagree with: (4.00 / 2)
This was, I think, a prototypical moment in the Obama campaign.  Obama's a smart and curious guy-the exact opposite of George Bush.  And so he reads this fascinating article and he's naturally inclined to want to talk about it.  It's stimulating.  But, then comes the pushback from the entrenched powers, and Obama is not about to ruffle anyone's feathers.  It's all about common ground with him.

Of course, I understand the reasoning here.  I understand the logic of the campaign-don't pick any fights you don't have to in order to win the election.  But I also understand that Obama is living in a fantasy world.  Power concedes nothing without a demand.  And closing ones eyes to enormous problems and the special interests who help create them is no way to bring about fundamental change.  So what Obama was up against in this moment was the basic contradiction between the brilliance of his campaign strategy, and it's total inadequacy for addressing a whole range of fundamental problems.

I think this is a deep misreading of the Obama campaign.  I don't think "don't pick any fights you don't have to" was the true logic of that campaign or candidacy.  I think the logic of the candidate and the campaign he ran was more like: "pick the most important fights that are winnable in the short-term, and focus on them like a laser."  Because you can't pick every fight all at once with everyone and still win.  If Obama had added Big Ag and Consumer Finance and "Predatory Lenders" and the Prison Complex and the Domestic Security State and the Drug Army and another half-dozen of our truest enemies onto his already considerable enemies plate, that six point margin would have disappeared and he may or may not have picked up enough additional voters elsewhere to make up for it.  You can't run against the whole world of malignant greed all at once, not in this easily-herded country.  Even factoring in the margins he got in Wisconsin and Iowa, adding an overhaul of American agriculture to the agenda would have put those states back in loseable territory.  Even if the pro-reform case is ultimately persuasive, when properly sold, there's just not enough time or bandwidth to make and win every argument all at once.  And I think the consistent logic of that campaign was to identify the most important, most time-critical stuff, focus on it, and win the campaign on it.  

War, energy, healthcare, and education, underlining the fact that improvements in each improve the economy -- that was the program that Obama kept coming back to.  Especially when he was asked in those inane debates what he would cut due to the financial crisis, he consistently chose to argue right then that these four areas were vital to improving the short- and long-term health of the country.  His campaign was an exercise in triage -- identify the currents in America that just have to be changed now, and get them first.  That's not avoiding fights; it's choosing them.  There is an enormous difference, and granting that the correct approach is to choose your fights, I think Obama chose pretty well.  (That he chose to make energy central is the only reason I really support him.)


It's Clear You Think You're Disagreeing With Me (4.00 / 1)
But you're really not.  The difference is almost entirely semantic.  And I only say "almost" because I don't want to get into another unwarranted argument.

The real potential point of contention, as I see it, is the second part of this--whether his overall view of politics vastly over-imagines what can be achieved without intense struggle, and heating things up considerably.

"You know what they say -- those of us who fail history... doomed to repeat it in summer school." -- Buffy The Vampire Slayer, Season 6, Episode 3


[ Parent ]
Yep (4.00 / 1)
I was reading that post and having trouble figuring out the difference.  There is a big difference in tone, of course.  Texas Dem makes Obama's choosing fights seem like a good thing where you make Obama's fight avoidance look weaker.  But there seems to be consensus on what Obama is doing.

[ Parent ]
I think you're accurate in part (0.00 / 0)
The real potential point of contention, as I see it, is the second part of this--whether his overall view of politics vastly over-imagines what can be achieved without intense struggle, and heating things up considerably.

I'd put the difference/question at hand more broadly: "how best can fundamental change be achieved at this point in history?"  

I think your point may be a very valid question re: Obama, but I think the mix of ingredients for achieving the systemic change we need requires vastly more elements than "intense struggle" and "heating things up considerably."  And I'm pretty sure you'd agree with me on that.

I believe the "struggle" and "heat" you refer to are necessary ingredients and, at times, may be so in large measure.  But I'm inclined to agree with what I view as Obama's perspective, that expanding and strengthening alliances, understanding key points of leverage, thinking and acting from a systemically-sound perspective, enhancing democracy, communicating clearly, inspiring citizens to act and think more clearly, responsibly and assertively yet humanely (among other things) are collectively more important than "heating things up."  

Not to draw any specific parallels (and acknowledging that even drawing a general one may be overstating my point), the French and Bolshevik Revolutions generated plenty of heat, but way too much of it manifested as painful and bloody friction that did more harm than good.  

It may sound naive and even flaky to some, but I do think that, in general, we need "more light" rather than "more heat."  We still need plenty of heat, but we'll be much better able to use it effectively (rather than get burnt) if we also have more light (transparency, communication, clarity of shared purpose, intelligent, realistic plans, etc.) and less unproductive friction.


[ Parent ]
Yes And No (0.00 / 0)
Yes:

I think your point may be a very valid question re: Obama, but I think the mix of ingredients for achieving the systemic change we need requires vastly more elements than "intense struggle" and "heating things up considerably."  And I'm pretty sure you'd agree with me on that.

I'm not calling for all-out war.  I am calling for the willingness to go to war--and pick a specific focus for it--as part of an overall mix.  I am also--broken record here--constantly reminding folks that conservative voters are a lot more in agreement with us than their political leadership is.  So going over the politico's heads is a very savvy move that ought to be used very carefully, but very powerfully to deliver a little shock and awe for those GOP senators up for re-election in 2010.

But no to the general direction of the rest of your comment because:

(1) I think it's not a matter of either/or, I think that a polarizing fight where 90% of Independents and 30% of Republicans are with us will do wonders for everything working smoothly elsewhere.

(2) Nor, for example, do I think that downplaying the BushCo destruction of the rule of law constitutes shedding light.  Sometimes what's needed is light, but it can't be gotten without heat as well.  I was never talking about heat for its own sake.

"You know what they say -- those of us who fail history... doomed to repeat it in summer school." -- Buffy The Vampire Slayer, Season 6, Episode 3


[ Parent ]
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