
Eating Liberally Food For Thought
By Kerry Trueman
Drugs and guns are more readily available than fresh fruits and vegetables in some poor urban neighborhoods, and, if you think about it (which, sadly, most of us don't), lack of access to healthy foods hurts a community just as substance abuse and violence do.
We enlightened-or, depending on your perspective, elitist--eaters in New York's West Village clog up the aisles of Whole Foods or Trader Joe's as we dither between the "minimally treated" local apples or the organically grown ones from the Pacific Northwest. But a few miles north of our Ethicurean enclave, folks are too burdened by the obesity epidemic and a diabetes rate that's ten times higher than it is downtown to debate the merits of local versus organic. An apple a day of either kind might keep the doctor away, but it's a moot point when you live in a "food desert."
In neighborhoods from East Harlem to East LA, the statistics tell the same story; a shortage of shops and restaurants offering healthy food; a surplus of outlets selling cheap, high-calorie, low-nutrient convenience foods; and an alarmingly high rate of diabetes and obesity. Uber-capitalists crow about all our consumer choices, but where are the choices for these consumers, so ill-served that it's literally making them ill?
Everyone from activists to nutritionists to farmers to politicians is trying to tackle this fundamental problem of how to provide people with more of those fresh fruits and vegetables the USDA keeps telling us to eat but doesn't seem inclined to subsidize (unlike the corn that's coming out our ears and every other orifice, now, and going into our gas tanks, at great environmental expense.)
But bringing these underserved communities more fresh, whole foods is a half-baked plan if you don't follow through and show folks how to cook up all that gorgeous produce. That's why I was so thrilled to find out about The Go Green East Harlem Cookbook, which Jones Books is publishing today. It's a lovely little paperback packed with 68 recipes for wholesome comfort foods, it's bilingual (English on one side, Spanish on the other) and it's going to be given away for free to East Harlem residents at community events (the rest of us can buy it in bookstores or online for $17.95).
Wow, sounds like a real public service! And that's because it is. The Go Green East Harlem Cookbook was produced by Manhattan Borough President Scott Stringer in collaboration with the non-profit Community Fund for Manhattan, who spent $54,000 to print 8,000 copies of the cookbook.
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